A Quiet Encounter
One spring afternoon in Kamakura, I found myself at Hase-dera, a temple known for its beautiful hydrangeas and serene atmosphere. I wandered past the rows of hydrangeas, finally reaching a small wooden booth selling ema (絵馬). The plaques were simple, yet each one held a world of personal hopes and dreams. I selected one, a pentagon-shaped piece of wood with a painted image of Jizō, the guardian deity of travelers and children. The reverse side was blank, waiting for my words. As I stood there, pen in hand, the distant sound of temple bells seemed to urge me on. I wrote my wish carefully, feeling a quiet connection to all those who had come before me.
Each ema, like a single note in a vast symphony, contributes to the collective melody of human aspiration.
The Story Behind Ema
The term ema literally translates to “picture horse,” combining the kanji 絵 (e, picture) and 馬 (ma, horse). This reflects the tradition’s origins, where real horses were once donated to shrines as sacred offerings. Horses were believed to be divine messengers, and this practice was a way for people to send their prayers swiftly to the gods. However, as time passed, practicality necessitated a change, leading to the creation of clay horse figures, and eventually, wooden plaques depicting horses.
By the Heian period, wooden ema with painted horses became commonplace at Japanese shrines. Over time, the imagery expanded beyond horses, with each shrine developing its own unique designs. For instance, at Fushimi Inari Taisha, the plaques often feature foxes, which are considered the messengers of the rice god Inari. Meanwhile, shrines near the ocean might depict waves or sea creatures, and those associated with academia may display open books or plum blossoms, symbolizing growth and learning.
The personal wishes inscribed on each ema have always been a conversation between the individual and whatever they believe might be listening, a ritual that connects deeply with concepts like Wabi-sabi, finding beauty in the ephemeral and imperfect nature of life.
Ema in Today’s Japan
Choosing the Right Shrine
In Japan, not all shrines are seen as equal when it comes to specific wishes. Tenmangū shrines, dedicated to the scholar deity Tenjin, are particularly popular among students preparing for important exams. For those hoping for a safe birth, shrines dedicated to Konohanasakuya-hime are favored. However, no shrine will turn away a sincere request, and the essence of the ritual lies more in the act itself.
Purchasing and Personalizing Your Ema
Buying an ema is straightforward. Plaques are sold at the shrine’s juyosho (授与所) for a small fee, usually between 500 to 1,000 yen. The design on the front, while part of the tradition, allows for personal preference, and the simplicity of the act echoes the mindful practice of Zazen.
Use the pen provided to inscribe your wish. Some people choose to include their name, the year, or even their hometown. There’s no need for elaborate calligraphy; what counts is the intent behind the words. Specificity is encouraged, as it helps clarify your desires, much like ikigai, or finding a sense of purpose.
Hanging Your Ema
The ema rack, known as the ema-kakari (絵馬掛かり), is often situated near the shrine’s main hall. Hang your plaque with the painted side facing outward. While bowing afterward is not mandatory, it feels like a natural gesture of respect.
After hanging your ema, some people choose to return to the shrine to reflect on their wishes, while others leave it to the shrine’s seasonal ceremonies to release the prayers through rites such as kitou (祈祷) or purification fires, akin to Misogi.
The Act Beyond the Shrine
For those unable to visit a shrine, the core of the ema ritual can still be practiced. At significant moments, such as New Year’s Day or a birthday, write your wish on paper. Decide whether to keep or release it. The act of transcribing your desire gives it form, much like the mindful practices of Shodo, where each brushstroke carries intention.
Common Misunderstandings
Action versus Hope
One common misconception is treating ema as a substitute for action. Writing a wish is a declaration, not a magic spell. The ritual works best when it complements real-world efforts. After writing your wish, consider what steps you will take toward it, similar to the proactive philosophy of Kaizen.
Transactional Thinking
Some view ema as a transactional exchange with the divine. This misinterpretation misses the essence of the practice. Ema is about sincerity and letting go of the outcome. Release the wish and trust in the process, a lesson that resonates with the concept of Shikata ga nai.
Overloading with Wishes
Visitors might feel compelled to write multiple wishes, but this dilutes their power. A single, focused wish holds more weight than several scattered ones. Before approaching the shrine, take a moment to decide what truly matters to you.
Treating Ema as a Tourist Activity
While it’s easy to see ema as a cultural souvenir, the ritual invites deeper engagement. If you choose to participate, let your wish be genuine, much as you would in a practice of Hatsugama, where each gesture is performed with careful intention.
A Moment I Remember
I once visited the Dazaifu Tenmangū in Fukuoka, a shrine dedicated to Tenjin. It was bustling with students, each carrying their hopes for academic success. Among them was Kenji, a young man preparing for his entrance exams. As he wrote his wish, his focus was intense. He didn’t pray outwardly but stood silently, feeling the weight of his words. The scene was a poignant reminder of the collective hopes that gather at these racks.
Another time, at Meiji Jingū in Tokyo, I observed a couple from Sweden, unsure of what to write. The man simply wrote “thank you,” while the woman wrote her daughter’s name. Their sincerity was touching, and it reminded me that ema is an open ritual, welcoming to all.
FAQ
Can anyone participate in the ema ritual?
Absolutely. Ema is open to everyone, regardless of religious belief. The ritual is not about adherence to Shinto or Buddhism but about the act of sincere wishing.
Is it okay to write in languages other than Japanese?
Yes, wishes can be written in any language. The kami are believed to understand the intent behind your words, much like the universal language of Haiku, where essence transcends language.
What happens to the ema at the end of the year?
Most shrines collect and ceremonially burn the ema in a purification fire. This ritual is not about disposal but about releasing the prayers into the universe, akin to the cleansing rituals of Misogi.
Can I read other people’s ema?
While the racks are public, it is considered respectful to glance rather than scrutinize. The wishes are personal, and reading them should be done with discretion, much like overhearing a private conversation.
Do I need to follow up on my wish?
A follow-up is not required, but some choose to return to the shrine to express gratitude if their wish is fulfilled, similar to the concept of Omoiyari, where kindness and consideration complete the cycle.
The practice of ema is a simple yet profound way to connect with the intangible aspects of life. By naming our desires, we give them form, allowing us to engage with them more fully. Whether at a shrine or in the quiet of your home, this ritual invites you to consider what you truly wish for.